Beaches, Farms, and People

(Before I launch into this post, just want to say that I feel a lot better today :) )

Nicaragua is a land of pristine beaches, and it’s amazing that, despite this, very few people go to the beach except during Semana Santa (the week of Easter). [When I commented on how beautiful the beaches are and how much I love the sea, people gave me somewhat strange looks.] On Tuesday evening, I joined the group of MCC DC staff who were visiting for the week to go to Poneloya and Las Peñitas – the beaches closest to Leon (approximately 20 kms away). The road leading to Poneloya is one whose rehabilitation will be funded by the MCC, and the repairs are badly needed (although I have seen roads in similar and worse condition in Bulgaria) – huge potholes, low bridges, which get flooded easily during the rainy season, and missing gravel in the final stretch. But the beaches are definitely worth the bumpy ride (see photos below), and although to me the surrounding area seemed quite underdeveloped (a small village and a couple of small hotels), I was told that this is about as developed as it gets on the northern Pacific coast. So, can’t wait to see more of the coastline.

On Thursday, we took a field trip to visit several of our projects’ beneficiaries to the northeast of Leon and to check out several roads whose repairs MCC might fund, near the towns of El Sauce y Achuapa. The “might fund” depends on research and a final calculation of the economic return on the improved road; apparently, not all roads meet the minimum percentage requirement. A funny anecdote connected to this: one of my colleagues joked that you can make any road investment profitable by driving Bill Gates up and down that road several times. Simply the opportunity cost of his time is sufficient to hike up the return past the necessary threshold :).

I must say that as much as I liked the field trip, I couldn’t quite get used to the bumps and holes in the road and felt quite car-sick by the end of it. (Something that I must quickly get used to if I am to see more of this country on the weekends and once I am done with the internship). As I mentioned before, roads here are of varying condition, but the more rural ones haven’t been fixed in at least 10-20 yrs and, in some places, probably never were built with asphalt or concrete to begin with. Financing from the IADB or the Nicaraguan government sometimes lasts only to fund stretches of a road at a time, leaving you unpleasantly surprised once the smooth road suddenly ends. But, that aside, it was very interesting for me to see who our projects were helping – mostly agricultural producers, all of whom kept uttering their thanks to this “great organization” and for “the support they had received.” It was quite touching and a reminder for why projects like this, when implemented well, are worth the hardships sometimes involved in development work. As far as the landscape goes, we were surrounded by lush, green vegetation on either side of the road, volcano peaks in the distance, and cultivated farmland in a lot of places. Skinny dogs (to me now - a Nicaraguan trademark), cattle, horses, chickens, and pigs roam and graze freely in the fields (talk about free-range chicken!).

Now that I have been here a week, people at work often ask me whether I am liking Nicaragua and what I like most about it. My brief answers: the landscape and the people. Granted, I have only had limited glimpses of the landscape since I arrived in Leon, but I look forward to seeing more. I am always more drawn by nature and natural wonders than by cities (although I do like admiring architecture), Nicaragua being no exception.
The people amaze me every day. Everyone has been super friendly and helpful from Day 1 – from work colleagues offering to share their lunch with me when I hadn’t brought any to several people taking me out dancing on Day 2 to my housemates (students 18-20 yrs old) telling me that they are “at my disposal to answer any questions or help me with anything.” They are also very curious. I am already teaching my younger colleagues Bulgarian. The first phrases they requested were: “I love you”, “I hate you” and “Go away” :) Some of them are also trying to practice their English with me, although I refuse to answer in anything but Spanish, even if it’s bad Spanish (after all, I need to practice too).

Coming up next, the cultural and nightlife of Leon.

Las Peñitas Beaches:

Landscapes:

Leon:

Inner courtyard and common areas of the house where I'm staying

The Cathedral

Streets of Leon

Another street with Iglesia de el Calvario (one of the many churches) in the background

Iglesia de el Calvario